Bakuchiol vs retinol: a gentler anti-ageing option?

Short answer: Bakuchiol vs retinol: retinol has far more research for fine lines and uneven tone, but often brings dryness and stinging. Bakuchiol, from bakuchi (babchi) seeds, matched retinol in one small 12-week trial of 44 people, with less irritation. It is a sensible gentler option, though the evidence is limited.

Key takeaways

  • Retinol is better studied; bakuchiol is usually milder but has only a few small studies.
  • Whole bakuchi seed oil is not the same as the purified bakuchiol used in trials, and we state no percentage.
  • Use bakuchi oil at night only, and wear an SPF-rated sunscreen the next morning.
  • Caution: ask your doctor before use if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or on prescription skin medicines.

What is the difference between bakuchiol and retinol?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A. Bakuchiol is a plant compound found in the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, known in India as bakuchi or babchi. The two are not chemically related; bakuchiol is called a "retinol alternative" because studies suggest a similar effect on how skin looks.

Retinol Bakuchiol
What it is A form of vitamin A A plant compound from bakuchi (babchi) seeds
Evidence Decades of research A few small studies; promising, not conclusive
Common complaints Dryness, peeling, redness and stinging, especially at the start Usually milder, but any plant extract can irritate
When to use Night, with sunscreen every morning Depends on the product. Whole bakuchi seed oil: night only
Pregnancy and breastfeeding Generally avoided; ask your doctor Not studied in pregnancy; ask your doctor

Is bakuchiol as effective as retinol?

In one trial it performed about as well, but retinol still has far more evidence behind it. In a 2019 study in the British Journal of Dermatology, 44 people used either a 0.5% bakuchiol cream twice a day or a 0.5% retinol cream once a day for 12 weeks. Both groups showed less wrinkling and less hyperpigmentation, with no significant difference between them.

One honest limit: that trial used a cream with a measured amount of purified bakuchiol. Our Bakuchi Oil is the whole cold-pressed seed oil, with one ingredient on the label and no stated bakuchiol percentage, so please do not compare it number for number with a 0.5% serum. Its page promises no timeline either: skin often feels smoother fairly early, while fine lines and pigmentation change far more slowly.

GraceYes Bakuchi Oil, 30 ml

Bakuchi Oil

30 ml · ₹390

If you would like to try whole bakuchi seed oil: one ingredient, 30 ml, night use only.

Not for you if you are pregnant or breastfeeding, unless your doctor agrees. Use it at night only.

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Honest note: not for use in the morning, and not a like-for-like swap for a measured retinol serum. Skip it and ask your doctor if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.

Is bakuchiol better than retinol for sensitive skin?

It is often easier to tolerate. In the same trial, the people using retinol reported more scaling and stinging.

Gentler does not mean risk-free. Bakuchi oil is a potent, undiluted botanical, so patch test on the inner arm first and begin with two or three nights a week.

Can I use bakuchiol in the morning, and does it make skin sun-sensitive?

It depends on what is in the bottle. Purified bakuchiol in serums is generally described as not making skin more sensitive to sunlight. Whole bakuchi seed oil is a different matter: the seeds also contain psoralens, natural compounds that react to sunlight. That is why our page asks you to use it at night and wear sunscreen the next morning.

For that morning step, use an SPF-rated product. Our own Sunscreen is a plant-oil cream without a tested SPF rating, so do not rely on it for measured protection.

How do I use bakuchi oil on my face?

Use it at night, in small amounts, and build up slowly.

  1. Patch test on the inner arm before your first full application.
  2. After cleansing, take two or three drops, alone or blended into your moisturiser.
  3. Massage gently until absorbed. Keep it away from your eyes.
  4. Start two or three nights a week, and move to nightly once your skin is comfortable.

Two of our night products also contain bakuchi oil. The Under Eye Cream (15 gm) uses bakuchi oil infused with gokshura and robusta coffee. The Brightening Face Serum (30 ml) pairs it with niacinamide from green peas and avocado.

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Add only the steps you need. Each button adds one item to your bag.

GraceYes Face Wash

Step 1, cleanse

Face Wash · 150 ml · ₹385

A gentle cleanse before any night product

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GraceYes Bakuchi Oil

Step 2, night

Bakuchi Oil · 30 ml · ₹390

Two or three drops, two or three nights a week to start

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GraceYes Under Eye Cream

Step 3, eyes

Under Eye Cream · 15 gm · ₹315

A night cream that also uses bakuchi oil

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GraceYes Face Moisturizer

Step 4, moisturise

Face Moisturizer · 50 gm · ₹600

Helps skin stay comfortable while it adjusts

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Can I use bakuchiol and retinol together?

Some people alternate them on different nights. Add one new product at a time, so you know what your skin is reacting to. If you use a prescription retinoid such as tretinoin or adapalene, ask your dermatologist before adding bakuchi oil.

Is bakuchiol safe during pregnancy or breastfeeding?

Do not assume so. Retinoids are generally avoided during pregnancy, and bakuchiol is often marketed as the safe swap, but it has not been properly studied in pregnant or breastfeeding women. As our product page says, check with your doctor first.

Frequently asked questions

What is bakuchiol called in India?

The plant is bakuchi, also called babchi or bavachi. Bakuchiol is one compound found in its seeds.

How long does bakuchiol take to show results?

We would rather not attach a number to it. The trial above ran for 12 weeks, and changes in lines and tone are gradual.

Is GraceYes Bakuchi Oil pure?

The pack lists one ingredient, Bakuchi Seeds Oil, in a 30 ml bottle. It is cold pressed, with no hexane, mineral oil, silicones, parabens, fragrance or alcohol, and no added preservative.

Is bakuchi oil the same as bakuchiol?

No. Bakuchiol is one compound found in bakuchi seeds. Bakuchi oil is the whole cold-pressed seed oil, which also contains other compounds, so results from purified bakuchiol studies do not transfer directly.

Does bakuchiol help with dark spots?

In the 2019 trial, both bakuchiol and retinol groups showed less hyperpigmentation. It was a small study, so treat it as promising rather than proven. See a dermatologist about patches that are spreading or changing.

Can I use bakuchi oil every night?

Build up slowly. Start with two or three nights a week, and move to nightly only if your skin stays comfortable.

What mistakes should you avoid with bakuchi oil?

  • Using whole bakuchi seed oil in the morning. It contains psoralens, which react to sunlight.
  • Skipping sunscreen the next day. Use an SPF-rated product.
  • Jumping to nightly use. Start with two or three nights a week.
  • Layering it with a retinoid on the same night without asking your dermatologist.
  • Comparing it number for number with a 0.5% bakuchiol serum. The oil states no bakuchiol percentage.

Is it safe? Patch test and when to ask a doctor

Patch test first. These are cosmetics, not treatments. Try bakuchi oil on the inner arm for 24 hours before using it on your face. Use it only at night, and stop if you notice burning, itching, redness or a rash. Ask your doctor before use if you are pregnant, breastfeeding or using prescription skin medicines, and see a dermatologist about pigmentation that is spreading or changing.

In short: bakuchiol is a gentler option with limited evidence, and whole bakuchi oil belongs in the night routine only.

If you would like to try it, our Bakuchi Oil, or browse all GraceYes products.

Our motto: to make the cleanest beauty products

If you'd like to build a gentle night routine around it, every product in our face care range lists its full ingredients on the pack.

Browse our face care range →

Sources

  • Dhaliwal S. et al., "Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing", British Journal of Dermatology, 2019. doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16918

More from the Journal: Gotu kola oil for face: benefits and how to use it and Serum for dry skin: what it does and how to layer it in winter.

About the author: Bhavya Ankita is the founder of GraceYes Organics, a plant-based personal care brand. About GraceYes

This article is for general information and cosmetic use only. It is not medical advice. Patch test before use. If you have a skin or scalp condition, are pregnant, or are using this on a child, check with your doctor.