Short answer: Silicones, mineral oil and PEGs mostly give products a feel of care rather than nourishment. Silicones coat skin and hair with a film that washes off, mineral oil seals the surface, and PEGs give creams a smooth base. We leave all three out and use plant oils, butters and a plant-derived emulsifier instead.
Key takeaways
- Silicones create a smooth film that washes off, so the effect needs repeating; on hair they can build up.
- Mineral oil and petrolatum seal the surface; purity depends on the grade, and Indian law does not specify one.
- PEGs are made by ethoxylation, which can leave traces of 1,4-dioxane unless it is stripped out.
- Honest caution: plant oils can also clog pores for some people, so patch test, and ask your paediatrician before using any oil on a baby.
Why do we leave out silicones, mineral oil and PEGs?
Some ingredients are refused because they are harmful. Others are refused because they are hollow: they imitate the feel of nourishment while delivering none, and carry their own baggage besides. Silicones, mineral oil and polyethylene glycols (PEGs) are the three we get asked about most.
What do silicones do to skin and hair?
They lay a film. Dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane and their relatives are what make a serum glide and a conditioner feel instantly smooth. They do this by laying a thin, water-repellent plastic-like film over skin or hair. The film is the whole effect. It does not feed the skin, it does not change the hair fibre, and it washes off, which is why the product must be used again tomorrow.
On skin the film can trap sweat, oil and dead cells underneath, which for some congestion-prone skin may mean more breakouts rather than fewer. On hair it can accumulate, and the weighed-down, dull feel that follows is often blamed on the hair.
The environmental record is firmer than the skin record. The cyclic silicones D4 and D5 are classed in the EU as persistent and bioaccumulative, D4 additionally as toxic to reproduction, and since 2020 both are restricted to 0.1% in rinse-off cosmetics. What goes down the drain does not break down.
Is mineral oil bad for skin?
It depends on the grade, and that is the problem. Mineral oil is the base of most baby oils; petrolatum is the base of most balms. Both are refined from crude oil, and both work by occlusion, sitting on the surface to slow water loss. They contain nothing the skin can use. If you are choosing an oil for a baby, ask your paediatrician.
Two things concern us. First, mineral oil hydrocarbons accumulate in the body. Autopsy studies have found mineral oil saturated hydrocarbons in human fat, liver and lymph nodes, and a 2011 study of women identified cosmetics as a probable source alongside food. Second, purity varies. Poorly refined grades can carry polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, some of which are carcinogenic, which is why EU law allows only grades with a known refining history in cosmetics. Indian law does not specify the grade.
The alternative is not complicated. Cold-pressed sesame, coconut, sweet almond and olive oils occlude too, and they bring vitamin E, fatty acids the skin recognises, and no petroleum.
What are PEGs, and why do they matter?
Polyethylene glycols (PEG-40, PEG-100 stearate and dozens more) are emulsifiers and penetration enhancers that give creams a light, even texture. They are made by ethoxylation, a reaction that can leave behind 1,4-dioxane, which the IARC classes as possibly carcinogenic. The FDA advises manufacturers to strip it out under vacuum; whether a given factory does is not on the label. PEGs also increase the absorption of other ingredients, which matters most when those other ingredients are the ones above.
How do these ingredients compare with what we use?
| Ingredient | What it does | What we use instead |
|---|---|---|
| Silicones (dimethicone) | Smooth, water-repellent film that washes off | Jojoba, watermelon seed and moringa oils |
| Mineral oil, petrolatum | Seals the surface to slow water loss | Cold-pressed oils; shea, mango and avocado butters |
| PEG emulsifiers | Smooth, even cream texture | Olivem 1000 and plant-derived cetearyl alcohol |
| Synthetic thickeners | Body and thickness | Xanthan gum, a fermentation product used in food |
What do we do instead of using them?
For slip, we use plant oils that skin absorbs rather than wears: jojoba, whose structure is close to skin's own sebum, watermelon seed and moringa. For occlusion, cold-pressed oils and shea, mango and avocado butters. For emulsion, Olivem 1000, an emulsifier made from olive-oil fatty acids, and plant-derived cetearyl alcohol. For thickness, xanthan gum, a fermentation product used in food. Each one is named on the label and detailed in What we use instead.
If you would like a silicone-free way to add shine and slip to your hair, try our Hair Serum.
Who this is not for: if your scalp is oily, keep serum to the lengths and ends only, and patch test first.
What mistakes do people make when avoiding these ingredients?
- Expecting the same instant slip. Plant oils feel different from silicones. Use a little less and give them a minute to absorb.
- Not clarifying hair after a switch. If you have used silicones for years, hair may feel different for a few washes while buildup clears.
- Assuming every oil suits every skin. Some oils can clog pores for some people. Choose by your skin type and patch test.
Safety and patch test
Patch test any new product on the inner forearm for 24 hours before first use. If you have eczema or another skin condition, are pregnant, or are using a product on a baby, ask your doctor or paediatrician first. For babies, you can also read which oil is best for baby massage by season.
Frequently asked questions
Are silicones bad for hair?
They are not harmful in themselves, but because the film does not wash off completely they can build up and leave hair feeling weighed down. Some people prefer to avoid them for that reason.
Is petroleum jelly the same as mineral oil?
They are related. Both are refined from crude oil and work by occlusion. Petrolatum is a semi-solid mixture; mineral oil is the liquid grade.
What is 1,4-dioxane?
A by-product that can form during ethoxylation, the process used to make PEGs. The IARC classes it as possibly carcinogenic, and manufacturers can remove it, but the label does not show whether they have.
Can plant oils replace mineral oil on a baby?
Many families use plant oils, but a baby's skin is delicate. Ask your paediatrician which oil suits your baby, and patch test first.
Do plant oils clog pores?
Some can, for some people. Richer oils suit dry skin; if yours is oily or acne-prone, start with a few drops and stop if new bumps appear.
Will my hair feel different without silicones?
Often yes at first. Hair may feel less slippery straight after washing, and lighter and less coated over time. Plant oils and a hair mask can help with softness.
In short: we choose plant oils and butters for slip and seal, and a plant-derived emulsifier for texture, and we name each one on the label. Read our No list for the full set of things we leave out.
Our motto: to make the cleanest beauty products
To see short, readable labels with nothing added, browse our single-ingredient range.
Browse our single-ingredient range →More from the Journal: LLP in hair oil: what is paraffinum liquidum, and is it safe? and Silicone-free hair serum: what changes when you leave silicones out.
Sources
- Commission Regulation (EU) 2018/35: octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5) restricted to 0.1% in wash-off cosmetics from 31 January 2020; ECHA classification of D4 as PBT and toxic to reproduction, category 2.
- Concin N et al. Evidence for cosmetics as a source of mineral oil contamination in women. Journal of Women's Health. 2011;20(11):1713–1719.
- Barp L et al. Mineral oil in human tissues, part I: concentrations and molecular mass distributions. Food and Chemical Toxicology. 2014;72:312–321.
- Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Annex II, entries on petroleum-derived hydrocarbons: permitted only where the full refining history is known and the material is shown not to be carcinogenic.
- IARC Monographs, Volume 71 (1999): 1,4-Dioxane, Group 2B; US FDA guidance on 1,4-dioxane in cosmetics.